A great tutorial posted in the DIY Tactical forum by Mike (aka Disturbed) of D-Tac. He takes you through the steps to build a simple zippered utility pouch. Take a look, give it a try and let us know what you think.
The following tutorial was written by Diz, one of the members of the DIY Tactical Forum. He did an outstanding job of documenting how to sew a pleated pouch for a single mag. The technique he demonstrated (along with the “201” tutorial) has since become known as the “Diz Technique” within the forum.
On the heels of Diz’s pouch tutorial I put together a how-to on making a pouch flap and back using 3″ webbing.
The main focus of this tutorial is to show you a way to easily make mitered corners and produce a clean, MALICE Clip compatible pouch flap and back.
Here are the materials:
Figure 1: The 3″ Mil-W-17337 webbing is Approximately 30″ long (for a 2 mag pouch), In the photo you can also see the template I made to help with marking. I just used a piece of manila folder but will eventually convert this to a masonite / hardboard template. There is also a piece of 1.5″ Mil-W-17337 or Mil-W-43668 webbing that is 4″ long, 4 pieces of 1″ Mil-W-43668 or Mil-W-17337 webbing that are 3″ long and a piece of 3″ hook tape that is 3.5″ long. I recommend using Type E or F thread.
The sewing machine is a Juki 1541. I would recommend a pretty heavy duty machine when using this method, at one point you are sewing through 6 layers of webbing.
In the first step I make all my markings. As mentioned I’ve made a template for this. To make the template I marked out a pieces of manila folder. I use this to mark my center lines, miter angle and placement marks for my 1″ webbing that will be used for the MALICE Clips.
Figure 2: Marking the center of the bottom layer of webbing. This is used to help align the pull tab.
Figure 3: here we are marking the top layer of webbing to help align the pull tab and marking the stitch line for the miter angles.
Figure 4: Marking the center of the pull tab.
Next, I fold the 1.5″ webbing in half and use the marks to line it up in the center of the 3″ webbing, then place the other side of the 3″ webbing on top of the pull tab. At this point the tab is on the inside of the flap.
Figure 5: Pull tab centered with the end of the 1.5″ lining up with the end of the 3″
Figure 6: Placing the other side of the 3″ on top. The 1.5″ is now sandwiched and centered in between the 3″ webbing. Notice the marks for the stitch line. The parallel line is about 3/8″ from the edge of the webbing.
Now we get ready to sew the end of the flap.
Figure 6: Here I start sewing parallel to the edge.
Figure 7: Sew to the end of the line and pivot to sew along the angle. Sew all the way to the end.
Figure 8: Rotate and sew back over your stitch line and do the same thing on the other corner.
Figure 9: here you have the finished end which has been double stitched.
We are now going to hot cut the corners to reduce bulk when the flap is inverted. This will make for a neater finish.
Figure 10: Hot cutting the corners, keep about 3/8″ from the stitch line.
Here we are going to invert the flap and pop the tab out this will create the angled corners we are going for.
Figure 11: The inverted flap.
Figure 12: After pulling the pull tab the edge will form. I like to use a mallet/hammer to pound down the corners, seems to make thing neater..
Sewing on the Hook Tape using a modified box X stitch. Here we are just going to sew the top, bottom and the “X”. we will sew down the left and right sides when we stitch around the perimeter.
Figure 13: I place the 3″ x 3.5″ hook tape about 1″ from the edge of the flap and sew to the corner.
Figure 14: Pivot and sew to the diagonal corner.
Figure 15: Pivot and sew to the other corner.
Figure 16: Pivot again and sew to the diagonal corner creating the “X”. at this point I also sew back over the first stitch line.
It is now time to mark where the perpendicular 1″ strips of webbing will go for attaching the MALICE Clips. Here we use the pre marked template again. This will also be creating the back of the pouch.
Figure 17: Make sure you flip the flap over so the hook tape is down. Mark the left side. Here I am just marking the top of the first row, bottom of the second, top of the third, and bottom of the forth.
Figure 18: Mark the opposite side and check to make sure the marks are square to each other and the webbing.
OK, Time to sew the perimeter which will also stitch down the sides of the hook tape and secure the 1″ strips.
Figure 19: I like to start In the same place I started when we did the interior stitch. Basically we are just top stitching the end of the flap. This is where you hit the 6 layers of webbing
Figure 20: Pivot and sew along the angle.
Figure 21: Pivot and sew along the edge securing the two layers of webbing and the edge of the hook tape.
Figure 22: Place the first strip of 1″ and it’s mark and sew.
Figure 23: Butt the second strip and continue sewing. When you get to the end sew back over and then back over again. Basically triple stitching the webbing.
Figure 24: Place the third strip and continue to sew down, I like to use a piece of 1″ as a spacer even though there are marks. Measure twice and don’t have to rip stitches.
Figure 25: Sew the last strip into place, triple stitch and go to the corner, pivot and sew the bottom. You are going to just sew up the other side, remembering to triple stitch the ends of the other side of the webbing.
Figure 26: Here is get to the last corner. I will sew that down and stitch across to the opposite side of the pull tab. Also not shown here i like to fold the end of the pull tab over about 1/2″ and sew it down, this make a little but of a handle. Useful when wearing gloves or mittens.
Figure 27 & 28: finished (with the exception of sewing down the center of the MALICE Clip webbing) Lid/Back waiting for a front.
Another pouch making technique from Diz. This time he is demonstrating making a double mag pouch with an integrated flap and sewn corners.
Here’s Diz’s Tutorial…
OK recently I have decided to re-investigate the classic, top flap, 2-mag pouch design. Again this is “A” way of doing it, as I am experimenting with different prototypes to see which one I like the best. I selected this one for a tutorial because it shows a different bottom closure technique that I think you would find interesting if you’re not familar with it.
It’s basically a take-off on the classic USGI 3-mag pouch, from the ALICE issue days. It has been modifed to take the side flaps off the top flap and cut down to 2-mag size. The basic dimensions are:
overall length: 22 1/2″
length at bottom of pouch side: 7 3/8″
width at 1st step: 5 1/2″
length at 1st step: 8″
width of top flap/back: 3 3/16″
A great double mag pouch tutorial from the forum, written by Diz.
Here is another way to make a pouch. This time I’m gonna use 3″ webbing as a base for the back wall and the flap. The 3″ webbing is 14″ net (28″ total). The pouch itself is very straight-forward. 7 3/4″ wide by 8 1/8″ in length.
Next we’ll add a 4″ long piece of 2″ webbing and loop velcro. I left 1″ hanging off the pouch for a pull tab.
Next comes the hardware.
Then I folded the edges over 3/8″ and sewed the pouch sides to the back.
This time I am using the folded technique again for forming the bottom.
Now let’s close the bottom.
Then we’ll add some Velcro to the top flap.
Now we’ll put loops on for the shock cord.
Now we’ll throw on the shock cord.
And here’s the finished pouch front.
And here’s a widely used technique. You tuck the flap over the back mag, leaving the front mag exposed and ready to grab.
I like this design. It’s clean and simple to execute. You could double up the pouch body on this one, or maybe run a webbing strip inside as before. This one is cut at 5″ for pouch height although 6″ would work as well.
Here’s another variation I was playing with yesterday. I put a piece of type 12 webbing as a chaffing strip down the middle. I like this stuff because it is light and thin but strong. Kinda like a 1 3/4″ piece of binding tape on ‘roids. This would also be a very good place for non-skid. Gives just a bit more strength to a single wall pouch where it’s needed.
On this one I cleaned up the flap a little with a 2″ square piece of velcro and tucked in corners which tuck inside the pouch easier. Notice I’m using a 3/4″ setback on the velcro for a pull tab. I also went to 5 1/2″ pouch height which fits nicely right under the Magpul.