6″ X 4″ small zipper utility pouch

A great tutorial posted in the DIY Tactical forum by Mike (aka Disturbed) of D-Tac. He takes you through the steps to build a simple zippered utility pouch. Take a look, give it a try and let us know what you think.

Here is Disturbed’s Tutorial:

OK this is a tutorial on how to make a small zipper utility pouch that measures 6” X 4” (I am using a ½” seam allowance for this as it easier for the maths, we will trim it to 3/8” later.)

First of all what you will need:


1000d Cordura.
A = 11 ½” X 7”.
B = 12” X 3 ½”.
C = 12” X 2”.
D & E = 3 ½” X 2 ½” (note in the picture it is 3 ½” X 3 ½” as I had miscalculated.)
One small piece of scrap to reinforce the drainhole

17337 1” webbing.
F = 5 lengths of 7 ¼” .

#10 coil zipper.
G = 12 ½” and 2 pullers.

Step 1:  Punch the hole through A and our scrap piece and mount the grommet.


Step 2: Mark the PALS grid for the front and rear on A.  I am using a single bar on the rear to allow the pouch to be mounted on 3 columns or 4.  Measure 1” from the top on the front and mark it for our first PALS bar, measure down 2” more and mark it for the second PALS bar, make sure you mark the edges as well.  Then mark the 1 ½” column spaces.  On the rear measure the half way point (3 ½”) and measure down ¾” from the top to start our rear PALS, this will stop you stitching through the top bar.


Step 3:  Sew on our 1” 17337 to the marked grid with a triple stitch, you can stitch all the way through on the front if you want but I like the looks of this better.  You only need to double stitch the sides.

Step 4:  Now we are going to start sewing our zip on.  Take C and sew it so the face of the Cordura is towards the zip and the short raw edge sits parallel to the edge of the zip.  Place your foot as close to the teeth of the zip as you can and then sew the length.  One you have finished fold the edge of the Cordura over and sewing so the zip edge is facing uppermost and to your left sew along the edge to double stitch it (as you can see mine went a wee bit wonky)


Step 5:  Sew B the same as for the first part of C, to keep things aligned all you need to do is butt the ends on B & C together before you start.  No for mine I marked 1” from the longest side edge and drew a line.  Flipped it over and then sewed the edge of the zip along this line.


Now measure your finished zip section from side to side, it should be a true 3 ½”, if it isn’t trim it to that, thread the pullers on from either end ensuring you evenly feed them onto the zipper to allow good flow.

Step 6:  Sew D & E to either end of the zipper section and cut and heat seal and excess zipper.  Sew 3/8” in and then bind it, fold it over and top stitch it.



Step 7:  Now we are ready to sew the completed zip section into A the body of the pouch.  At this stage I will normally mark a ½” seam all the way around the rear of A (the non PALS side.)  Mark half way between the tabs at the end of the zipper (to ensure it is even on the sides when you fold it out) and then line these two marks up and begin to sew.  Sew B so it is against the rear PALS grid, this will allow us to fold the zip cover back to get at the zip pullers.


When you get to a corner stop with the needle plunged, lift the pressure foot and turn it, line edges up and pull the tab out of the corner.  Sew all the way around.  Don’t get disheartened if you have pucks in the corners.  Be prepared to unpick it all and start again the first time you do it.  Try to follow that ½” seam guide as closely as you can.  I will make things easier.


And now we have done our inside seam all the way around.


Step 8:  Now we need to trim our edge down to 3/8” and inch and bind it.  As you trim around the corners make sure you round the edges off, it will make it a lot easier to bind.  Before binding make sure you heat seal the ends of all the webbing.   Melt the end of your binding and fold it over the rear and begin stitching.  Get into the rhythm of keeping pressure on the folded binding with a finger just forward of where you are sewing and make sure you butt the edge right into the binding.  Bind all the way around and when you get to a corner stop with the needle plunged and adjust your folded binding to a 45 degree angle stitch slowly and then bring it back to straight as you get around.


Once you are all the way around cut the binding so you have 1-2” overlap and sew over the start.


And now the final touches, use some side cutters and remove the metal zipper pulls and replace them with 550 cord, insert some MALICE clips in the rear and your good to go.



This is a handy little pouch that is great for small items that might fall out of or are hard to get in a larger pouch.  In this picture it has a Sz L Under Armor T-Shirt in it so they can carry a bit.  If you are into making things light weight you can dispense with the PALS on the front (I’ve never used it but my customers like it to put carabineers etc onto)

About the author: Mike Rinaldi
Founder of In My Workshop. Serial maker and DIYer. Trying to build a virtual home for people like me.

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